Early onset cabbage ennui

And a spiced tomato egg-noodle dish to address it

I’ve been holding off on eating cabbage. It has felt like time for cabbage for a while now: cold gray days, all my favorite vegetables out of season, the sense of needing to atone after too much frivolous spending.

But I’ve wanted to leave this one thing to still look forward to. I knew that soon — as soon as fantasies of warm weather and tomatoes and wax beans really take root in my head — cabbage would feel like a boring inevitability. To put this off, I wanted to delay cabbage’s first appearance in my winter diet, to make myself wait until I craved it.

I caved and cooked some cabbage the other day and it was good: braised, charred, over polenta. I remembered the sweetness cabbage yields, still always a surprise to me; the way it’s hardy enough to withstand heavy cooking, but can still emerge with a sense of being delicate. Then, I opened the fridge a few days later and the illusion had already broken: What remained was just a boring cabbage, something I was somehow already over.

This cabbage still had to be lunch at some point though.

This is how I think of what to make: I have cabbage and egg noodles. Maybe haluski? That’s kind of plain, isn’t it? Especially when what’s actually been calling to me is Meliz Berg’s minced lamb pasta and all the deconstructed manti riffs I’ve been seeing on TikTok. Then again, I don’t want to go buy mushrooms and walnuts to make a kind of mince — I’m trying to atone financially, remember?

So, back to the cabbage. What’s the way to make it exciting? Does lunch have to be “exciting”? Well, no. But I’d rather find pleasure in it if I can.

Think more: I have leftover crushed tomatoes, plus an opened tube of tomato paste. I envision cabbage rolls in red sauce. I remember the ashak from Parwana, its tomato sauce flavored with coriander, curry, turmeric, and vinegar. What do I want from the manti pasta, anyway? It’s the toppings, and sure enough, I have yogurt, parsley, lots of chili flakes, lots of butter. I am suddenly wistful about goulash and how I’ve always liked the contrast of a cool dollop of sour cream.

These are the elements I will use then: cabbage, egg noodles, tomatoes, warm spices, garlic yogurt, chili butter.

Cabbage and egg noodles in a spiced tomato sauce

1. Cut cabbage into shreds. To feed two people with leftovers, I used about a quarter of a large head.

2. Heat olive oil in a large pan¹ over medium heat. Add a gentle shake of ground coriander and a pinch of cumin seeds; let them warm in the oil. Toss in the cabbage, followed by a pinch of salt. Cover the pan and let the cabbage cook until it’s lightly browned and slightly softened, stirring occasionally.

3. Mince some garlic. Add the garlic to the cabbage, followed by a little more oil and a big squeeze of tomato paste, maybe a tablespoon. Stir to coat the cabbage and then let it cook for about five minutes. Add the crushed tomatoes, about a cup, plus about half a cup of water. I stirred in a spoonful of Better than Bouillon and a dash of baharat (this one’s a mix of pepper, cinnamon, allspice, and cumin; you can also use a little of those). Cover the pan and simmer until the cabbage is tender.

4. Boil water for the noodles. While you’re waiting for the water to heat and the cabbage to soften, grate a clove of garlic into a cup of yogurt. Add a pinch of salt and mix. I also added a handful of parsley that I finely minced.

5. In another small pot, melt two tablespoons of butter over medium heat. Add a little olive oil, followed by a pinch of cumin seeds and a few shakes of chili flakes. I used a mix of regular red pepper flakes, Urfa, and Cobanero². Let them bloom in the oil for a few minutes and then turn off the heat.

6. Cook the noodles according to the package instructions.

7. Turn the cabbage down to low and taste it. Add a splash of vinegar (I used red wine vinegar) and, if you like, a drizzle of honey or a pinch of sugar for balance. Adjust the salt to your preference. Using a spider or slotted spoon, transfer the noodles to the cabbage and stir to combine.

8. To serve, put the noodles in a bowl. Dollop on a spoonful of the garlic yogurt, followed by a drizzle of the chili-infused butter. The remaining cabbage is a challenge for another day.

Until next time, you can follow me on Instagram @crispyegg420.

1. I legitimately love this Eater x Heritage Steel sauté pan and use it nearly every day and I’m not just saying that because I work there. This is not an affiliate link.

2. I buy the latter two from Burlap & Barrel.